October 10, 2009

Back in Town


Over There, originally uploaded by Awreye.

你好。

I've returned and am breathing Beijing's polluted air once more. The blogging moratorium was due to my summer travel craziness (trips spanning two continents, several beaches, one desert and many a rainy clime). While most Beijingers fled town during the National Day holiday, I stayed, watched the military parade on television and chilled at the Modern Sky Festival.

Beijing, it's good to be back...well, good until the Beijing Cough knocks me out again and the 53rd time someone's spit lands 3 inches from my foot. Until then, let's hug.

June 18, 2009

Today's air at 4:40pm


Today's air at 4:40pm, originally uploaded by Awreye.

This is not fog. I am breathing this as I type this entry. This is bad, even for Beijing.

What is this air doing to my body? Oddly enough I neither coughed today nor have much trouble breathing. Does this mean I've 100% acclimated to this city's air pollution soup? Oh dear.

June 16, 2009

Step on Carpet


Trippy lights, originally uploaded by Awreye.

I remember standing on Georgio ordering a gin and tonic at BLVD last fall. Thought "how odd, even for New York" for a second before the bartender helped me balance on the lumpy carpet.

I haven't seen anyone like him here when I'm out and about (yet). Admittedly I haven't seen much of the nightlife in Beijing, but perhaps this is a little too much for this city. Oh, I miss the nightlife eccentrics from home!

June 14, 2009

The Week in Numbers - #17

Personal stats for the past week beginning last Monday to Sunday:

cups of coffee* consumed: 10
pints of Tsingtao consumed: 8
times I broke my vow to never eat in the same restaurant: 1
visits made to the Vietnam embassy: 1
hours spent KTV-ing: 3

June 3, 2009

The Week in Numbers - #16

Personal stats for the past week beginning last Monday to Sunday:

cups of coffee* consumed: 4
pints of Tsingtao consumed: 0
delicious passionfruit cocktails sipped at my new favorite bar: 2
times I broke my vow to never eat in the same restaurant: 1
hours spent watching Carmen performed in Chinese at the Egg: 3
walked over bridges carrying me over swampy Baiyangdian waters: at least 8

Not so long ago


One year and one day ago my plane touched down in Beijing, the last stop on my two week, four stop tour of China. The last time I visited this city was 13 years ago. Needless to say, the city had changed quite a bit since then.

My memories of that first trip are a blur of awe at the vastness of the Forbidden Palace, pain from walking the long boulevard of Chang'an Avenue and "wow, things are so different from home" observations like the elderly men in their open-air hair salons (basically a stool parked oustide the red wall of the Palace) beckoning to passerbys.

Fast forward to 2008. I was balancing a mojito on my knee while lounging in Bed Bar, when a member of our group mentioned that today was the 19th anniversary. Floored that I had completely forgotten the significance of that day (encouraged no doubt by its complete lack of mention in the local media), I and that member hailed a cab bound for Tiananmen to check out the scene.

As we approached a few minutews past midnight, we were greeted by silence. No signs of rememberance existed. A few guards watched a handful of tourists snap portraits of themselves under the watchful gaze of Mao's portrait and harsh street lamps. That's it.

Will I feel the same emptiness tomorrow?

May 30, 2009

The Week in Numbers - #15

Personal stats for the past week beginning last Monday to Sunday:

cups of coffee* consumed: 8
pints of Tsingtao consumed: 2
times I broke my vow to never eat in the same restaurant: 2
cost of my new bike: US$20
hours spent at the Intro 2009: Beijing Electronic Music Festival before it was shut down by the police: 5

May 25, 2009

You know summer is here when. . .


Exposed Belly, originally uploaded by nataliebehring.com.

. . .the menfolk start rolling up their shirts and exposing their bellies. Today I saw many a pale belly leading the way for its owner on the sidewalks from Wangfujing to Wudaokou. I've yet to see this hot look on the streets of New York (yet).

In contrast the womenfolk keep their bodies under wraps. Despite today's 86 degree F weather, I saw women wearing shorts with tights and socks with high-heeled sandals. Women of China, it is way too hot to be modest and layering up. Be free and be cool! Let your sweat run free.

May 19, 2009

The Week in Numbers - #14

Personal stats for the past week beginning last Monday to Sunday:

cups of coffee* consumed: 11
pints of Tsingtao consumed: 2
times I broke my vow to never eat in the same restaurant: 1
time spent climbing Hongluo (Red Snail) Mountain: 1.2 hours
filled seats in Megabox, theater where I saw J.J. Abrams's Star Trek: 25%

May 13, 2009

Book Cart Binge-ing


Beijing is a relatively dry city so street vendors abound. Selling ceramic coffee cups, Communist propaganda posters, toothbrush holders shaped like Hello Kitty and everything in between, I can browse, haggle and buy to my consumer heart's content. And this heart has a weakness for books.

Thankfully some book vendors have a few English language titles in their bicycle-drawn carts. Despite having two unread books from my previous book cart binge, I bypassed Stephanie Meyer's Twilight series and Barack Obama biographies and picked up three books. Today's loot: Eat, Pray, Love by Elizabeth Gilbert (read it many times but gave my old copy to a co-worker), What Would Machiavelli Do? by Stanley Bing and delightfully trashy chick lit Secret Diary of a Call Girl. Three books for 28 RMB. A fair price? At least it's cheaper than The Bookworm's wares.

I remember a time when Eat, Pray, Love was the book to read in New York. Subway cars were lined with women clutching the overhead railing with one hand and a paperback copy of that book in another. Recommended to me by a particularly sensitive masseuse during a wine-and-spa weekend in Sonoma, this bestseller helped galvanize me into making some life-changing decisions, one of which led me here.

The Week in Numbers - #13

Personal stats for the past week beginning last Monday to Sunday:

cups of coffee* consumed: 13
pints of Tsingtao consumed: 1
times I broke my vow to never eat in the same restaurant: 3 (jeez, I'm not doing so well here)
Bon Jovi songs I rocked during Saturday night KTV: 2
hours spent browsing and trying on summery dresses at the new H&M store on Qianmen Street: 2

May 12, 2009

Missing


Earlier this year my mom and a Portland friend sent me care packages filled with goodies: MTA subway map, Stumptown coffee, Brooklyn Industries t-shirts, earplugs, Dayquil. Yay! But when I am asked on the spot "what can I send you from home?" my mind usually goes blank. Everything is seemingly Made in China, so what do I possibly need from the US which I can't get here? So I started keeping notes about items, which I've needed or miss from home, and can't purchase readily or of a good quality.

On the list so far:
anti-perspirant that actually works and passes the black dress test
delicious cheese (not that sliced crap in the supermarket)
freshly made pesto
electroluminescent wire
spray foam
a superb croissant
Brooklyn Beer on tap
a straight answer (the chabudou, vague answers drive me nuts sometimes)
prosciutto
tampons
fitted bed sheets

While I can probably find the food and personal care items from Jenny Lou's, a supermarket which imports many of their goods from US and Europe and sells them at a significant mark-up, part of me balks at paying US$15 for a small container of jarred pesto with an expiration date of 6 months (ew).

I'm going to compare notes with other expat friends to see what is on their "missing from home" list. Wow, many of these items are food-related. This is probably due to my skipping dinner tonight. Based on the items on my list, it would seem that I am a starving, sweaty woman. So attractive.

May 7, 2009

Cute I am Not

How did it come to this? I walked by a street vendor two days ago selling t-shirts emblazoned with the usual assortment of NYPD logos, Chinglish statements and cutesy pandas. My eye picked out a tee with 4 Hello Kitties wearing Kiss-style makeup. The headline: Hello Kissy.

Usually my brain would simply register, "aww, how cute." But two days ago my brain also registered, "aww, how cute. let me buy one." Whaaaaa? I almost never wear these kind of tees with logos and fluffy animals, so why is my brain immediately jumping to how awesome I would look in it? Has exposure to millions of folks wearing such tees with bedazzled jeans affected my sense of perspective? China, what are you doing to my sense of personal style?!

P.S. Last month I gave into the "aww...buy" instinct with a gray t-shirt dotted with sushi rolls and "I heart sushi." Not a purchase I would have made in New York. I don't even heart sushi in real life, but the tee was so darn adorable.

The Week in Numbers - #12

Personal stats for the past week beginning last Monday to Sunday:

cups of coffee* consumed: 3
times I broke my vow to never eat in the same restaurant: 2
nights I spent sleeping a yurt: 1 bitterly cold one
hours riding in a cramped minibus: 19
hot pot dinners consumed: 3 (I think that I'm officially over my hot pot obsession)

April 30, 2009

The Week in Numbers - #11

Personal stats for the past week beginning last Monday to Sunday:

cups of coffee* consumed: 10
time it took me to consume one bottle of brewed-in-Oregon Dead Guy Ale: 30 minutes
video game consoles used to make Friday night dance music: 1 first gen Game Boy
times I broke my vow to never eat in the same restaurant: 2
potentially awesome business idea discussed over post-dim sum coffee: 1

April 29, 2009

First Impressions


When I travel to a new city, I first notice these things: cleanliness of public areas, transportation options, pedestrian-friendliness and amount of dog poop on the sidewalk. The quality and quantity of these items make an immediate and hard-to-shake impression on me, a fan of walks and public transportation.

Paris? Surprising amount of dog poop dotting the sidewalks, which somewhat marred my appreciation of the city's beauty. If you spend most of your time looking down wending your way through them, you spend less time looking up at the architecture, soaking in the personal style of your fellow pedestrians.

Istanbul? Hilly which makes walking as my primary mode of transport a bit tough. I also noticed that women tend to travel in groups and couples, which also made traveling as a lone woman in some areas a highly interactive experience.

Beijing? Surprisingly tidy, under the persistent layer of dust that coats everything. In my neighborhood an army of street sweepers remove debris in the daytime. Decent subway system, which is great for me as the sloooow pace of local pedestrians drives me nuts. However the frequent trains and cheap 2 RMB fare is offset by some poorly designed subway stations (try exiting a station with 234234 people crammed in two narrow exit hallways or walking up, down, up again, down again, outside and inside and down and outside and inside trying to transfer at Zhichun Lu).

Qingdao, not Beijing, was the site of my first pigeon-spotting in China.

Beijing also stood out because it is a pigeon-free city. I haven't seen a single pigeon here. Other birds fly about, but not those flying rats that infest New York and many urban areas. Were they rounded up by authorities in an attempt to clean up the city, like they tried to "deal with" stray cats before the Beijing Olympics? I don't miss them, but their lack strikes me as odd (but welcome!)

April 23, 2009

The Week in Numbers - #10

Personal stats for the past week beginning last Monday to Sunday:

cups of coffee* consumed: 14
pints of Tsingtao beer consumed: 0
cost of a small bottle of incredibly bad sake: 12 RMB (we ordered it because we were curious about how 12 RMB sake would taste like)
books purchased from sidewalk book cart: 2
time it took for the repair guy to fix my leaky washing machine after waiting a week and a half for him to actually show up: 1 minute

April 22, 2009

Just a Whistle


FYI yesterday's post was triggered oddly enough by a sound which I haven't heard since leaving New York, a whistle.

As I was leaving the Bridge Café yesterday afternoon, a bicyclist whistled at me. I haven't heard that sound since shuffling one block from my apartment to the corner bodega one weekend morning. Apparently the messy hair, black yoga pants, faded shrunken t-shirt and Chacos combo is a hot look for me back in Brooklyn. Here not so much. A woman, clad in the sloppiest, baggiest or oddest outfit, can walk down many a street in New York still get the "Hey, baby. You look soooo fine," murmured by a passerby or shouted out of a car window.

While I have seen foreign and local men discreetly give women the once over (usually those with tank tops cut to there and skirts cut to here), I haven't heard a catcall, whistle-type of harassment (or expression of appreciation for the female form, as some of my guy friends call it) in China.

The bicyclist wiggled his eyebrows at me as we passed each other. I had to stop and laugh. While at home, the "hey, baby" type of exchange made me roll my eyes, this whistle reminded me of home.

April 21, 2009

No DL Tailgate Parties Here


When I moved to Beijing, I unsubscribed from many New York-centric email lists about events, concerns, local groups of which I was a member. Each email made me miss the city and its quirkiness, an example of which is below:

date Mon, Apr 20, 2009 at 10:48 PM
subject Dalai Lama Tailgate party

Let's down beery marys and grill some veggie dogs before the happiness lecture.

Wear your favorite jerseys and paint your face NFL style. Bring balls
and giant foam hands.

How awesome is that subject header?

I've traveled a bit and lived in New England through college, but never experienced homesickness until my move to Beijing. How funny -- I couldn't wait to start this new chapter in my life last February. Now every three weeks I'll long for things New York: diversity, fresh tasty non-Chinese foods (especially pesto and Couscous Royale), crisp relatively clean air, my group of creative and driven friends, street art, edginess, late night no-holds barred discussion about taboo subjects with strangers and living no more than four blocks away from a green space more beautiful than Central Park, a bodega which stocks Lindemanns, a stop for 2 subway lines and a restaurant which serves awesome cocktails (Kiss the Sky, mmm) and juicy burgers.

Above photo was taken in my old Brooklyn neighborhood. I miss you Park Slope!

I am not quite ready to admit that living in New York has spoiled all cities for me. However I will admit that being away from my comfort zone of all things familiar has made me know myself better, decide what I really like, really dislike and can survive without. When I leave Beijing, I wonder if I'll long for this city as well.

April 20, 2009

Chinese Texting Growing Pains

Sending texts in Chinese takes me three times as long as it would take my sending texts in plain old English. Why? First I must type the pinyin of the Chinese character. Of course there is some sort of T9 function that tries to predict which character you want based on only one or two letters of the pinyin. T9 in English drives me nuts because it usually predicts the wrong word for me, so Chinese T9 drives me twice as crazy. I usually have to delete whatever erroneous character my Nokia mobile predicted and start over. This happens multiple times until I finally have my simple message ready to be sent to whomever freaking insists on texting in Chinese. Ahhhh.

I'll get the hang of it eventually. In the meantime expect a delay in response time, my Chinese language texters.